The right skin-care ingredients can help with collagen loss. Our collagen production may naturally start to decrease in our mid-to-late 20s, explains Morgan Rabach, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Rabach Aesthetics. When you add in air pollution, sun exposure, inflammation, stress, poor sleep, and other external factors, that’s when collagen really weakens and you’ll start to notice those first signs of aging: fine lines, sagging skin, etc.
If you’re not facing severe skin laxity that requires the more intense skin-firming treatments, topical products will be your first line of defense. “Using ingredients that support collagen improves skin quality over time,” Dr. Rabach says. “Supporting collagen will help improve hydration retention, skin texture, and firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.”
New York City board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, agrees and says these ingredients help protect the collagen in our skin and create an environment where it functions better.
“They may reduce collagen breakdown caused by free radicals or inflammation, improve hydration and barrier health, support the skin matrix around collagen fibers, and help optimize skin-repair processes,” Dr. King explains. So if you’re looking for a skin-care routine that’s more collagen focused, these are the eight best ingredients to look out for:
Retinoids
Retinoids are among the best ingredients for supporting collagen, according to experts.
As Dr. Rabach explains, they stimulate collagen production,
As Dr. Rabach explains, they stimulate collagen production, speed up cell turnover, and increase skin thickness over time. They also reduce the activity of enzymes known to degrade collagen as we get older. She says you can consider prescription retinoid options, such as tretinoin and tazarotene, but recommends looking specifically for retinoids like retinol or adapalene. For over-the-counter products, some retinoid options we love include Medik8’s Crystal Retinal 1 Serum or the A313 Vitamin A Pomade.
Dr. King recommends something like Mother Science’s Retinol Synergist for sensitive skin. Retinoids are powerful ingredients known to cause irritation, redness, and increased sun sensitivity, so experts recommend using caution when incorporating them into your routine. Dr. King says you can turn to gentler products that include hydrating ingredients to offset harsh reactions or look to ingredients such as bakuchiol, which offers retinol-like collagen-supportive benefits with less irritation.
Vitamin C
Antioxidants are important for defending collagen against the sun’s harmful UV rays, pollution, and other environmental aggressors, Dr. King says. And one of the best antioxidants to turn to is vitamin C. As Kevin Lamont Bachar, RN, lead injector and founder of B. Beauty Medical Aesthetics, explains, vitamin C supports collagen synthesis. “Without it, the body cannot form functional collagen properly,” says Bachar.
It acts as a cofactor for the enzymes
“It acts as a cofactor for the enzymes responsible for stabilizing and cross-linking collagen fibers, working to rebuild collagen while also protecting collagen.” He recommends something like SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic Serum or the Dermalogica BioLumin-C Serum. Peptides
As you may know by now, peptides are a go-to for optimal skin health, and they are especially crucial if you are looking to support and stimulate collagen.
Copper peptides, in particular, have the bonus of supporting wound healing We love something like Skinceuticals P-TIOX or SkinMedica’s TNS Advanced+ Serum. Niacinamide
Niacinamide helps reduce inflammation-induced collagen degradation and supports the skin barrier It also stimulates dermal fibroblasts to increase collagen production and offers many other benefits to keep skin super healthy, Bachar adds
“[It] is one of my favorite ingredients because it’s versatile and generally very well tolerated across different skin types and tones,” he says. “[It] strengthens the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, improves hydration, and brightens the skin, helping reduce hyperpigmentation.”
Try something like The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Serum or Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum.
Growth factors Dr. King recommends including growth factors,
Growth factors
Dr. King recommends including growth factors, the naturally occurring proteins in our bodies that signal collagen production and encourage collagen renewal, in your skin-care routine to support collagen. We love products like Epi.Logic Master Plan Collagen Renew Growth Factor Serum or the Bioeffect EGF Serum to firm skin. Hyaluronic acid
Hydration is key to supporting collagen, and no other ingredient hydrates better than hyaluronic acid.
“[It] hydrates and plumps the skin, creating a healthier environment for collagen function,” says Dr. King. She recommends something like the Korres Black Pine Primus 6xHA Wrinkle Smoothing Youth Activator for what she calls “optimal plumping.” (And it’s rich in antioxidants to protect the skin from free radicals and peptides to smooth out fine lines, she says.) We also like the Peach & Lily Glass Skin Refining Serum and the Dr.
Lara Devgan Hyaluronic Serum for that hydrated, glass-skin look. Ceramides
Ceramides are another skin-barrier strengthener that experts love. Dr. King adds that they can help soothe chronic irritation, which accelerates collagen degradation. We like products such as Dieux’s Instant Angel Lipid-Rich Firming Moisturizer and Aestura Atobarrier 365 Cream for nourishing moisturizers that strengthen the skin barrier and maintain your skin’s moisture level.
SPF Sunscreen is a must for many reasons
SPF
Sunscreen is a must for many reasons (protection from cancer-causing UV rays being one of the main ones), but experts say it also plays an important role in supporting our collagen. “It’s one of the best collagen-preserving tools we have,” Bachar says. “UV exposure significantly accelerates collagen breakdown and photoaging by increasing oxidative stress and activating enzymes that actively degrade collagen fibers.
Daily UV protection is one of the most impactful things we can do for long-term skin health and collagen preservation.”
He recommends the EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 as it won’t leave a white cast and provides great sun protection. We also love La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Air Daily Supercharged Serum Sunscreen SPF 50 or Tatcha Milky Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ for sunscreen that’s lightweight and blends seamlessly into the skin while still providing high SPF.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
From glycolic acid to lactic acid, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are known to help smooth and clear skin. But they’re also great for stimulating collagen. As Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, explains it, AHAs weaken the bonds between dead skin cells and reveal smoother skin underneath and stimulate fibroblasts to build collagen in the skin.
This is why they can help improve
“This is why they can help improve the appearance of fine lines and skin texture over time,” Dr. Garshick says. But be careful about over-exfoliating: too much might lead to irritation or disruption to your skin barrier. “It’s best to limit use to one to two times per week,” she says. Turn to something like the U Beauty Resurfacing Compound or the RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Peel Pads.
AHAs get rid of dead skin cells and promote skin cell turnover and stimulate fibroblasts to build collagen. In this way, they can help with overall skin cell turnover including improving the overall appearance of skin tone and texture including fine lines and wrinkles. It is important to avoid over-exfoliating – either too often or too aggressively. More exfoliation does not equal more collagen, and excessive use can lead to irritation and barrier disruption.
It is best to limit use to 1-2 times per week. Bakuchiol
If retinol is too harsh, consider trying Bakuchiol. The plant-derived alternative to retinol is known to increase collagen production while also smoothing fine lines and uneven texture, says Dr. Garshick. You basically get a lot of the same benefits that you get with retinol, just without the irritation. Dr. Garshick likes the Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptide Serum, which she says is great for all skin types and combines nourishing ingredients like cica extract and peptides to gently even out tone and improve overall skin texture.
We also like a classic like Paula’s Choice’s
We also like a classic like Paula’s Choice’s 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Face Serum. PDRN
One of the buzziest regenerative skin-care ingredients this year, PDRN works to repair skin and improve your skin texture, but can also reduce inflammation and support collagen production. More formally known as polydeoxyribonucleotide, PDRN is commonly used in injectable treatments. Now it’s found in topical products in hopes of getting
Though Dr.
Garshick says more research needs to be done to determine the full benefits of PDRN when used topically, it is gentle enough for even the most sensitive skin. Plus, it has already made its way to some of our favorite products of the year. She likes the Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum while we love the IOPE XMD Stem III Clinical Recovery Serum. Curious about a beauty or wellness trend?
We want to know! Email Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor at beauty@vogue.com.
Source: www.vogue.com
